This model can be used to study the complex interplay between skin microbes and acne formation. ## Acne and Skin Microbiome: A New Model for Understanding Acne Development
The study of the skin microbiome, the community of microorganisms living on our skin, has taken center stage in recent years. Its role in maintaining skin health and preventing various skin conditions, including acne, is increasingly recognized.
“But the reality is that most of these products are not truly microbiome-friendly.”
This statement is supported by research conducted by Evonik, which found that many popular cosmetics contain ingredients that disrupt the balance of the skin microbiome. These ingredients can be found in a wide range of products, from cleansers to moisturizers, and can have a variety of effects on the skin. Evonik’s research has identified several key ingredients that disrupt the microbiome balance. These include:
The microbiome consortium is grown on microplates that allow the investigation of 48 individual samples simultaneously. Per the company, this is quantifiable and cheaper than previous methods. “Our new model closes the gap between simple but less meaningful conventional in vitro tests and more time-consuming in vivo studies on test persons,” Pelzer notes. Moreover, the company notes that work to enhance complexity has already started. One possibility would be combining the bacterial co-cultures with tissue and cell culture models. After all, as Pelzer explained, microorganisms do not simply interact with each other; they also interact with the skin cells. Applying the Model for Microbiome Claims, Skin Conditions
To measure the effects of products and ingredients on the model skin microbiome, any increase or decrease in the biomass and changes in the diversity of the cultures is compared with a control. The results are then entered in an evaluation matrix as: “microbiome-boosting,” “microbiome-friendly,” “microbiome-modulating” or “microbiome-impairing.” Every significant change in the diversity of the bacteria is regarded as adverse because the protective function of the skin microbiome depends on the natural equilibrium of the microorganisms, the company notes. Adapting the original “balanced skin” model, Pelzer’s team has additionally developed a model for acne-prone skin. Further models will be developed in collaboration with customers in the cosmetics industry.
Claims Substantiation Key to Market Growth Evonik highlights experts estimate that global retail sales of cosmetic and care products will grow to ~US $460 billion this year (2024) and by 2027, potentially reach ~$580 billion. “Scientifically substantiated efficacy claims will be key to this growth,” the company notes.
